Warsaw: Travellers’ Cafe

Serendipity, now there’s a word. Have you ever been looking for something and stumbled on something else by accident. A few days’ into Warsaw I came across the Travellers’ Cafe. I have to wait til 2pm for it to open which seems odd given the normal hours for a cafe is 7 or 8 in […]

Warsaw: Uprising Phoenix

It all starts with the research… even before leaving China, the signs are there, the growing dissatisfaction with ‘things,’ the realisation that the honeymoon period has passed, the boredom of knowing what another year of teaching in China will entail; meeting a nice smiley woman who once you sign the contract isn’t so nice anymore, […]

Vilnius: Scene of a Hundred Churches, Scent of a Thousand Women

I’ve been fascinated by Vilnius for years mostly because it sounds like some sort of futuristic domed city on some distant planet only the Starship Enterprise would visit, or failing that, The Jetsons. The reality is despite the clutch of gleaming modernist new builds over in Snipiskes and the TV tower everything is much more […]

Riga: Baltic River Town

At 10am on the 10th of July I pull out of Tallinn bound for the next Baltic capital Riga. In the row before me is an American family and opposite a Lithuanian tour guide. Like Helsinki and Tallinn it will be my first time there and again there are wrangles with Hotels who want firm […]